{"id":54488,"date":"2022-12-19T14:49:57","date_gmt":"2022-12-19T12:49:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.lion-test-sites.co.za\/mica-new\/?p=54488"},"modified":"2022-12-19T15:09:27","modified_gmt":"2022-12-19T13:09:27","slug":"how-to-drill-through-glass","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.lion-test-sites.co.za\/mica-new\/how-to-drill-through-glass\/","title":{"rendered":"How to drill through glass without having a cracking time!"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
In this case, it was a mirror that was to be mounted on a wall and to do that, it required a hole on each corner for the attachment screws naturally, mirror screws, which have a threaded head into which is screwed a decorative chromed cap.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Some tips for you before you begin<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
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Ensure that the glass (in this case, mirror) is on a perfectly flat surface or that it is supported at each drilling point by a flat surface under it, such as a length of flat wood.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
Use masking tape or similar to mark the drilling points; the tape helps prevent the drill bill from skittering over the surface and either scratching it or, worse\u2026 breaking it.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
Do not use excessive pressure on the drill. Let its weight do the work, with just a little<\/em> help from you.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
Run the drill at a slow speed; ideally building a little coffer dam around the drilling site with some Prestik and filling it with a little water will also help the tip of the bit and the glass itself stay cool.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
When you penetrate the glass, take extreme care to not allow the drill bit to pass through too quickly it could crack the glass.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
It is risky trying to drill a hole too close to the edge of the glass; the holes for the attachment screws in this case are about 50mm in from each side of each corner, giving plenty of supporting material on every side of the drill hole.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
Where possible, if attaching anything (mirror, medicine cabinet or wherever) to a tiled wall, try to position the attachment screws in the grouted channels between the tiles. As was done in this case. If you ever decide to remove whatever was on the wall, it is very easy after removing the plugs to then fill the holes with grouting compound\u2026 for a very unobtrusive restoration job. Holes bang in the middle of a tile can also filled in, but the restoration unless you can very closely match the filler colour with that of the tile will always be pretty obvious.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
In passing, if you are attaching a mirror to a bathroom wall, as in this case, take extreme care to avoid putting it anywhere where you might run the risk of going through a water pipe. It would really<\/u><\/em><\/strong> ruin your day!<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Materials:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
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Mirror<\/li>\n\n\n\n
Mirror screws 40mm in this case<\/li>\n\n\n\n
Aerosol enamel paint<\/li>\n\n\n\n
Aerosol protective wax<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Method:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
Check the mirror\u2019s dimensions against the wall and in the case of a tiled wall, position the drill holes for the attachment screws so that they will pass through the grouting see above reference in Tips<\/em><\/strong> as to why this is a good option. Use masking tape to mark the positions of the holes VERY accurately on the mirror. Drill the holes with a drill fitted with a masonry bit of the required diameter in this case 8mm\u00d8.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n
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